In addition to the tools listed below, I would recommend the following:
Small “Ziplock” plastic bags for keeping fixings in when you have sorted out a fastener pack.
Large Ziplock Bags (A4) to re-seal a fastener pack. They come stapled and it is easy to spill the contents if they are not sealed.
7mm Spanner for the inside nut in the indicator pod
Standard Tool List
- Socket set Metric
- Socket set Imperial
- Deep socket set Metric
- Deep socket set Imperial
- Spanner set Metric
- Spanner set Imperial
- Screwdrivers – Flat/philips/posidrive
- Soft faced hammer – Rubber/plastic/copper/hide
- Circlip pliers
- Torque wrench 8-60Nm
- Torque wrench 60-300 Nm
- Allen keys Metric
- Allen keys Imperial
- Metric Hex bit set
- Imperial Hex bit set (Note – Tim Skipper’s book explains how to make these if necessary)
- Measuring tape
- Rivet gun
- Twist drill bits Metric
- Twist drill bits Imperial incl 5/32″
- Crimp pliers
- Axle stands x4
- Mixing jug
- Eye protection
- Engine hoist SWL 150Kg
- Large socket 41mm
- Allen key 10mm or 3/8″, cut down to 10-15mm height (the Assembly Guide explains this)
- Dremel or equivalent
- Small files
- Metric Tap & Die Set
- Jerry can
- Centre punch
- Foot pump
- Tyre pressure gauge
- Brake bleeding kit
- Breaker bar
- Side cutting Pliers
- Brake line bending tool
- Oil suction tool
- Grease gun
- Drive adaptor Set
- Latex gloves
- Rubber lubricant
- Loctite Threadlock
- Silicone Sealant
- Bell housing cover sealant (e.g. Loctite Quick gasket)
- Masking tape
- Bearing grease
- Engine oil
- Running-in oil
- Gearbox oil
- Differential oil
- Brake fluid
- Tea (copious quantities)
- I bought 2 Draper torque wrenches to cover the required torque range (except for the 250 lbf/ft on the rear drive shafts – I was lucky enough to have a work colleague who has a huge one which goes up to this figure and beyond!) I checked the calibration at various values by gripping a bolt in the vice/work mate, slipping the torque wrench plus socket on to the bolt head and hanging weights from the torque wrench handle (weight times distance equals torque etc.). Higher torques can be checked using a length of pipe to extend the wrench handle – the weights I used were previously unemployed hand dumbbell weights, 2.5lb, 5lb and 10 lb in various combinations.
Source: Blatchat build techniques,originally by Peter – Red Roadsport SV. List rescued by BBL from California
- Invest in a couple of selection boxes of UNF and metric fasteners. These cost around a tenner each from motor factors and make maintenance much easier. It means that the days of scratching round jamjars are over. Just get the box down and choose exactly the fitting you need. This is essential with old cars where you can waste hours trying to get rusty fasteners undone where a mechanic would have cut it off, thrown it away and replaced it in half the time.
- You may also wish to buy a small torque wrench for the fittings under 20lbft. There’s no need to go mad buying Britool, Facom, or Snapon, a decent one will be under £20.
- I find it saves time to have spanners etc hanging on a toolboard. It doesn’t take long to build and means that you can see all the regularly used tools at a glance. You have a nicer time if you know where to find the tool you need.
- Buy a decent trolley jack that will lift the car to the highest extension of your axle stands.
- If you buy an engine hoist it can be used to lift the car – or used to position the differential if you’re on your own (through the boot floor).
I found the information below from Tony Cummings in the FAQ section of the Lotus 7 Club forum. Full article here
I use a cheap-o ‘Draper’ bendy pointer one and have found it to be acceptably accurate to plus or minus 1 lb ft, throughout its entire range of 10 – 150 lb ft. My confidence comes from having taken it to work (Oxford Airport) and tested it on their ‘Acu-Torque’ machine. However expensive a torque wrench you buy, if you don’t get it tested you might as well use it as a hammer. The type that adjusts by winding-in the handle is notoriously ‘dodgy’ if not tested. Your local garage “might” have a tester, but any local airport with a maintenance facility will have a proper one, which itself should have an up-to date test certificate label. I’ve noticed on several peoples build sites that they have stripped the threads on bolts while torque-ing them up. If you put any substance that has lubricating properties on the threads, such as Copper Slip or ‘Loctite’, you MUST use a lower torque value (multiply original torque value by 0.7). Check-out these websites for more info: http://www.norbar.com/pdf_files/torquevalueguide.pdf http://www.norbar.com/faq.htm http://www.norbar.com/twec/index.html USING A TORQUE WRENCH The article continues… The importance of correct torque application cannot be overemphasised. Under-torque can result in unnecessary wear of nuts and bolts, as well as the parts they secure. Over-torque can cause failure of a bolt or nut from overstressing the threaded areas. Uneven or additional loads that are applied to the assembly may result in wear or premature failure. The following are a few simple, but important procedures, that should be followed to ensure that correct torque is applied.
- Calibrate the torque wrench before it is used for the first time, following purchase. Thereafter, at least once a year, or immediately after it has been abused or dropped, to ensure continued accuracy.
- Be sure the bolt and nut threads are clean and dry, unless otherwise specified by the manufacturer.
- Run the nut down to near contact with the washer or bearing surface and check the friction drag torque required to turn the nut. Whenever possible, apply the torque to the nut and not the bolt. This will reduce rotation of the bolt in the hole and reduce wear.
- Add the friction drag torque to the desired torque. This is referred to as Â“final torque,Â” which should register on the indicator or setting for a snap-over type torque wrench.
- Apply a smooth even pull when applying torque pressure, by holding the torque wrench at the centre of the handle and smoothly apply the required force at right angles to the wrench. If chattering or a jerking motion occurs during final torque, back off the nut and re-torque. NOTE: Many applications of bolts in aircraft/engines require stretch checks prior to reuse. This requirement is due primarily to bolt stretching caused by over-torqueing.
- When installing a castle nut, start alignment with the cotter pin hole at the minimum recommended torque plus friction drag torque. NOTE: Do not exceed the maximum torque plus the friction drag. If the hole and nut castellation do not align, change washer or nut and try again. Exceeding the maximum recommended torque is not recommended.
- When torque is applied to bolt heads or cap-screws, apply the recommended torque plus friction drag torque.
- If special adapters are used which will change the effective length of the torque wrench, the final torque indication or wrench setting must be adjusted accordingly – see web site below.