- Don’t tighten any of the front / rear suspension bolts which go through bushes until the car is on the floor with full weight on the wheels. You will only end up slackening them off again.
- The big washers on the suspension have chamfers on one side of them. After fitting the suspension, I spent a happy 2 hours turning the washers round again so that the chamfer side was against the rubber suspension bushes (as stated clearly in the manual!). I forgot this immediately after reading it and installed them with chamfer facing wrong way but looking ‘pretty’.
- I found that the top steering bush can be more easily fitted if top steering column section is first pushed down through dash tube into engine compartment and onto lower column section as far as it will go. The top bush popped into place easily without the top column trying to ‘guide’ it (using rubber lubricant of course!!) under finger pressure and top column section can be pushed back up from inside engine compartment into bush.
- Top ball joints spin as soon as nut nyloc bit hits thread. Use a short length of tube (I used an 11mm off cut of Ø20 steel tube that I had bought from B & Q) or stack of washers slipped over thread under nut which can then be tightened sufficiently firmly to pull taper joint together. Nut can then be slackened, pipe/washers removed and nut replaced and tightened properly.
- The front wishbone bushes would not fit between the chassis lugs, use a nut and bolt to jack the lugs apart.
Source: Blatchat build techniques,originally by Peter – Red Roadsport SV. List rescued by BBL from California
- Use a sash clamp to pull the wishbones together at the upright end so that the nuts can be tightened without spinning the studs.
- Front brakes: Assemble rear flexible brake line at chassis the same as front flexible lines – not how it says in the build manual.